Equipment

Cooling rack

A wire rack lets air reach the underside of food. That sounds trivial and it is the difference between a crisp base and a soggy one, because steam that cannot escape condenses and re-wets whatever it is under.

Why it works

Hot food releases steam from every surface, including the bottom. Sitting on a plate or a tray, that steam has nowhere to go: it condenses on the cool solid surface and the base of the food sits in its own moisture.

On a wire rack the steam escapes downward into open air. The base dries at the same rate as the top, which is why a cake cooled on a rack has an even crumb and one cooled in the tin is damp underneath, and why fried food on a rack stays crisp while fried food on kitchen paper does not.

It is one of the clearest examples of moisture migration in a kitchen, and one of the cheapest things to fix.

The jobs one rack does

What to look for

A close grid
Wires running both ways, closely spaced, so small biscuits and chips do not fall through.
Oven-safe
Stainless steel with no non-stick coating and no plastic feet. Then it doubles as a roasting rack.
Fits inside your baking sheet
The single most useful thing about a rack. Buy them as a matched pair if you can.
Feet tall enough for air
A rack sitting a centimetre clear works; one sitting flush does not.
Sturdy enough for a chicken
A flimsy rack sags under a joint.
Two of them
They are inexpensive and you will use both on a baking day.

When not to use one

Common questions

Why does my cake have a wire pattern on it?

Turned out too soon while still soft. Let it settle in the tin for ten minutes, and turn it the right way up on the rack.

Can I put a rack directly on the oven shelf?

Yes, if it is oven-safe and unpainted. Put a tray underneath to catch drips.

Is kitchen paper ever right for fried food?

For a brief blot before serving, yes. For anything sitting for more than a minute, a rack.

Should bread cool completely on a rack?

Yes, and it should also be left uncut until cold — the crumb is still setting.

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