Fish sticking to the pan

It releases itself, if you wait

When protein meets hot metal it forms bonds with the surface. As the contact face cooks and browns, those bonds break down and the fish lifts cleanly — this is exactly the same behaviour as a steak releasing from a pan once it has crusted.

The mistake is testing too early. A spatula pushed under a fillet after ninety seconds tears the flesh, leaves the skin welded to the pan, and destroys the crust that was about to form.

So the rule is simple and hard to follow: put it in, leave it alone, and only move it when it moves.

Getting a fillet out in one piece

1. Dry the fish thoroughly, skin and flesh both. Wet fish steams and sticks.
2. Season it just before cooking, not before. Salt draws moisture to the surface.
3. Get the pan properly hot with a thin film of oil. The oil should shimmer.
4. Lay the fillet skin side down, away from you, and press it flat with a spatula or fish slice for ten to fifteen seconds. Skin contracts faster than flesh and will curl away from the pan if you do not.
5. Then leave it alone. Do not poke it, lift a corner, or slide it about.
6. Wait until the flesh has turned opaque up most of the side and the edges have coloured. Give the pan a small shake — if the fillet slides, it is ready.
7. Turn once with a thin fish slice, cook the flesh side for a minute, and take it out.

Pan, oil and fish

Non-stick

The easy answer, and it cannot be taken hot enough for the best crust. Fine for delicate fillets.

Carbon steel or cast iron

The best crust, and unforgiving if the pan is not properly hot and seasoned.

Stainless steel

Works, and sticks the most. Get it hot and be patient.

Oil

A neutral oil with reasonable heat tolerance. A thin film, not a puddle.

Delicate fish

Plaice, sole and very fresh cod fall apart easily. Flour them lightly, or cook them skin-on so the skin holds them together.

If it has already stuck

• Stop pulling. Take the pan off the heat for thirty seconds — the contraction as it cools often releases the fish.
• Slide a thin fish slice from the side, flat against the pan, rather than levering from above.
• If the skin stays behind, serve the fillet flesh side up and scrape the skin out afterwards. It happens to everybody.
• Flake what breaks into a fish pie, a chowder, fishcakes or a kedgeree. Broken fish is barely a setback.
• Clean the pan properly before the next fillet. Burnt-on protein guarantees the next one sticks too.

Common questions