Ingredient

Rump steak

Rump comes from the hindquarter, a muscle group that works steadily without working hard. The result is a steak with considerably more flavour than fillet, a firmer chew, and a price that reflects fashion rather than eating quality.

Flavour against tenderness

Tenderness and flavour in beef pull in opposite directions. A muscle that barely moves — the fillet — is very tender and tastes of little. A muscle that works hard develops myoglobin and flavour compounds and also develops connective tissue.

Rump sits usefully in the middle. It has enough work in it to taste properly of beef, and not so much that it needs braising. That makes it the best value steak on most counters.

It is not uniform, though. A whole rump contains several muscles of differing tenderness, which is why one rump steak can be excellent and the next merely fine. A butcher who cuts to order will tell you which part of the rump you are getting.

The parts of a rump

Rump heart

The main muscle, evenly tender, what most rump steaks are cut from.

Rump cap (picanha)

The triangular muscle with a thick fat cap on top. Outstanding, and the centrepiece of Brazilian churrasco. Ask for it by name.

Rump tail

Thinner and slightly tougher. Better marinated or cut for a stir-fry.

The grain

Runs clearly, and rump must be sliced across it. This matters more here than for a fillet.

Thickness

Buy at least two and a half centimetres. Thin rump goes from raw to overdone with no useful stage between.

Cooking and slicing

The slicing is half of it.

1. Bring it towards room temperature and dry the surface thoroughly.
2. Season generously. Rump takes salt well and benefits from a heavier hand than a fillet.
3. Very hot heavy pan, a little oil, and leave it alone until a crust forms.
4. Turn once. Baste with butter, garlic and thyme in the last minute if you like.
5. Rest for at least as long as it cooked. Rump is firmer than fillet and the rest does more for it.
6. Find the direction of the grain — the lines running through the meat — and slice firmly across them at an angle. Slicing with the grain leaves long fibres and a steak that eats tough.

Where rump is the right choice

• A steak with proper beef flavour, cooked medium-rare and sliced. Better value than sirloin and better tasting than fillet.
• Picanha, if you can get the cap. Scored fat, salted heavily, cooked over fire.
• Stir-fry, sliced very thin across the grain. Rump is the best of the cheap cuts for this.
• Steak sandwich, where the flavour matters and a little chew is welcome.
• Marinated and grilled, particularly with soy or chimichurri.
• Thinly sliced for a salad, cooked rare and dressed while warm.
• Not for a braise. It is too lean and lacks the connective tissue a stew needs.

Common questions