How to make apricot jam

Why a poor apricot makes good jam

The problem with a shop apricot is that it was picked before it developed sugar and aroma. Cooking with sugar substitutes for the first, and the Maillard and caramelisation reactions during a hard boil generate aromatic compounds the fruit never had.

What apricots do have is a reasonable amount of pectin and a decent acidity — more than a peach, less than a currant. Most recipes add lemon juice to make the set reliable rather than because it is essential.

The other advantage is that apricots hold their shape better than most stone fruit, so a jam with recognisable pieces of fruit in it is straightforward.

The method

Straightforward, with a stone decision to make. FoodHQ does not publish keeping times, jar-processing schedules or the acidity figures that decide whether a sealed preserve is safe on a shelf. In the UK the Food Standards Agency is the authority — follow its guidance on sterilising, sealing and storing.

1. Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Unlike plums, apricots are freestone when ripe and this is quick.
2. Weigh the fruit. Cut it into quarters or leave halves, depending on how chunky you want the jam.
3. Put it in a preserving pan with a splash of water and the juice of a lemon per kilo, and simmer until the fruit softens — ten minutes or so.
4. Put two plates in the freezer. Add an equal weight of sugar to the prepared fruit and stir over a low heat until dissolved.
5. Boil hard and start testing at eight minutes.
6. Skim, stand briefly and pot. For a glaze, sieve while still hot.
7. On the kernels inside the stones: apricot kernels are a food-safety matter and the Food Standards Agency is the authority. Follow its guidance rather than a recipe.

Using it as a glaze

Apricot jam is the patisserie standard for brushing fruit tarts, and there is a reason.

• It sets clear, so the fruit underneath shows through.
• It tastes of very little once thinned, so it does not compete with the tart.
• Warm it with a splash of water, then push it through a sieve to remove the pieces.
• Brush it on while both are warm, working outwards from the centre.
• A second thin coat once the first has set gives a better shine.
• Redcurrant jelly does the same job where a red glaze is wanted.
• Keep a small jar for glazing rather than sieving a whole batch each time.

Notes

Ripeness

Slightly under-ripe fruit sets better. Very ripe apricots need more lemon.

Dried apricots

Make a good, dense, dark jam. Soak them first and expect a different, more caramelised flavour.

Vanilla

A split pod simmered with the fruit is the classic addition.

Almond

Apricot and almond is a real affinity. A few drops of almond extract, or a handful of blanched almonds in the jar.

Chunkiness

Apricots hold their shape. Halves give a chunky preserve; chopped fruit collapses more.

Common questions